![]() ![]() Bolt is near the center of the panel, on the inside of the firebox. To remove the inside panel you will most likely have to drill out the Allen head 1/4 20 bolt. Older Resolute-You need to remove the inside right panel and vac the by-pass chambers, also remove the collar and go down in behind the fire back. I have vacumed out the ports that are accessible, but there are limits to reach in throu out the air passages, no? I'm just about giving up on this VC stove and replacing it with an Upland 207. There is a plate which sits below the damper and appears to have ash behind it, but is inaccessible. When you taker off the flue collar you can access all of the damper and part of the control arm. I have taken the flue collar of, but not the top of the stove. If you adjust thermosatat lever to open door on back to the max setting the fire responds to the addidional air but does not surge at all. While operating in the down position the fire smogs I have stoked the the stove with dry wood and left the draft open and it ripps up the flue plenty of draft in Maine once you go to the down position it smogs and slowly struggles. ![]() That blows the theory that I have heard from many that it is absolutely crucial that the wood is dry. The stove in MAss will sustain a fire and elevate in heat when operating in the down position regardless if the wood is dry or unseasoned. I using this stove as a bench mark in performance to the other and there is no comparison. The stove at my full time residence works great. One stove is in Maine the other in Massachusetts. If your door opens down it is a I or II, if they open sideways it is a III). Depends on the doors and a few other factors. (see links - you have a Resolute I, II or II. An owners manual which may have some information is here: You may be able to get a service guide to that model from CFM. It should lock closed, and then take a decent amount of effort to open. Many user only push it so far, and do not lock it all the way. Also, keep in mind that it is supposed to lock hard into the closed position. I think you can make it up by slightly bending the rod, but you have to take the flue collar and blank plate off. OOPS, I am thinking of the newer resolutes! The older ones are different. This can be done from either inside the stove by lifting the top, or at worst by removing the flue collar plate. ![]() I don't think you have to remove the back no matter what. By adjusting it, you set the level of tightness that the damper actuator rod presses against it with. Some units have a small wedge of cast iron which is mounted on the damper flap - and this has a set screw that allows it to be adjusted up or down. I think this may depend on the exact model. ![]()
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